Size against the headboard, not the bed
Measure the headboard at its widest point, which is often wider than the mattress. Keep the arrangement between 60 and 90 percent of that width and never beyond it. A nominal queen mattress is 60 inches wide and a king is 76 inches, but headboards add posts, upholstery and side rails, so measure rather than assume.
Where there is no headboard, size against the mattress width and drop the lower limit to 50 percent, because there is no visual mass below the art to support a wide group. The failure mode without a headboard is an arrangement that hangs too low, filling the gap the headboard would have occupied and putting frames within reach of a moving pillow.
The 8 to 12 inch clearance
Hold 8 to 12 inches between the top of the headboard and the lowest frame edge. This is wider than the sofa clearance because a headboard is taller, pillows sit in front of it, and the art is seen from a bed where the sight line is close and steep. Below 8 inches the frames appear to rest on the headboard; above 12 they detach from it.
Worked through: a headboard whose top sits 48 inches above the floor plus 10 inches of clearance puts the lowest frame edge at 58 inches. A 22 inch tall arrangement then finishes at 80 inches with its centre at 69 inches, well above the usual 57 to 60 inch convention. That is expected above a bed and is not a reason to lower it.
Low ceilings and the band you actually have
The available height is the ceiling height minus the headboard top, minus the clearance, minus a top margin of at least 6 inches so the group is not squeezed against the ceiling. On a 96 inch ceiling with a 48 inch headboard and 10 inches of clearance, that leaves 32 inches of usable band.
Thirty-two inches decides the layout on its own. Two rows of 8 x 10 frames at 2 inch gaps come to 22 inches and fit comfortably. A single row of 16 x 20 frames is 20 inches and fits. Three rows of 11 x 14 frames need 46 inches and cannot be made to fit by trimming gaps, so change the row count rather than compressing the spacing.
Weight and glazing over pillows
This is the one wall where the mounting decision outranks the design decision. Prefer lighter frames and acrylic glazing over glass for anything hanging directly above sleeping heads. Where glass is unavoidable, keep those pieces to the outer positions rather than the centre of the headboard.
Do not rely on remembered weight limits. Read the published rating for the specific hanging hardware and for the wall fixing you intend to use, check what surface and orientation the rating assumes, and confirm the wall construction before drilling. Adhesive strips in particular carry manufacturer conditions about surface type and paint curing time that are easy to miss.
Symmetric or asymmetric above a bed
Symmetry is the low-risk choice: a pair or a trio placed on the bed centre line, identical frames, identical gaps. It levels easily, it survives the bed being remade badly, and it does not fight a pair of bedside lamps. The cost is that it is inert, and any error in levelling is immediately visible against the horizontal headboard edge.
Asymmetric groups work above a bed only if the optical centre still lands on the bed centre line. Build outwards from an anchor placed slightly off centre, then balance it with two or three smaller pieces on the opposite side so the bounding box centre returns to the middle. Check the bounding box in the planner rather than trusting your eye, because a heavy anchor reads further off centre than it measures.
Combinations that fit common bed widths
For a 60 inch queen headboard, three 16 x 20 frames in a row at 3 inch gaps build to 54 inches wide and 20 inches tall, which is 90 percent of the headboard and comfortably inside a 32 inch band. For a 76 inch king, three 20 x 24 frames at 3 inch gaps come to 66 inches wide and 24 inches tall.
For a 54 inch double, two 16 x 20 frames at 3 inch gaps give 35 inches, which is 65 percent and sits at the quiet end of the range. If that looks thin, move to two 20 x 24 frames at 3 inch gaps for 43 inches rather than adding a third frame and overrunning the headboard.
Check the plan from the pillow
Enter the headboard as a furniture obstacle and any wall sconces or switches as separate zones, then lock them. Duplicate handles repeated frames without re-entering dimensions, and align keeps the row edges true. The plan stores everything in millimetres from the bottom-left floor origin, so the printed coordinates are measured up from the floor and across from the wall corner.
Before drilling, tape paper templates and then lie on the bed and look up at them. The view from the pillow is the steepest angle anyone will ever have on this wall, and it is where an arrangement hung too low or too wide looks worst. Adjust from that view rather than from the doorway.